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Forums > Fabrication, Installation, and Repairs > Solid Surface

Shower Base

Last Post 09 Oct 2008 04:01 PM by politefab. 8 Replies.

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Wade Stein

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06 Oct 2008 11:20 AM
Has any one built a shower base without a oven? Looking for tips, and tricks. This is for my personal shower. Being cheap and don't want to spend the dollars to order one. Aby help would be appreciated. Wade

politefab

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06 Oct 2008 01:17 PM
i have built several shower set ups. on the back side of the the pan assuming that it is 1/2" material you can cut 1/4"deep grooves out from the center of the drain to the out side corners that would total 4 grooves. flip it over so the grooves are up in the air and put a high point where the drain hole will be . use clamps to pull down the sides the grooves should open up a little bit. once you have it to where you want it cut strips on your table saw to fit in the grooves. you will probably need a slight angle on the strips glue them in place once the glue is dry you should be able to remove the clamps and sand the bottom side down

Johnny C

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06 Oct 2008 03:29 PM
I built many shower pans before I got my oven. I used a pie shape pieces technique. This is where you divide the pan from the corners to the drain and cut pieces to those shapes. I would set the pieces up in thier proper orientation and do a mirror cut in the valley between the pieces. Always reinforce the backside of the seams with a reinforcement strap. Johnny C

politefab

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06 Oct 2008 04:12 PM
i have done it that way as well but found it was a little more of a hassle. by cutting the grooves in the back you don't have the surface seams and the transitions are smooth and it looks like it was thurmo formed both ways work try them both out

Kowboy

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06 Oct 2008 04:57 PM
Eli: I've built them by grinding the surface, it curves up on it's own somewhat once you start. I like your way better. Andy: I can build a 48" square pan with a 4" high coved backsplash and curb in fifteen hours. Joe

Wade Stein

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08 Oct 2008 06:46 PM
Politefab, How much are you bending the sheet after you cut the grooves? I tried it and it broke. I used a Festool saw to cut the grooves, is that what you use? This shower pan is approx. 5 x 4. Do you cut your drain hole first or after you bend the sheet? Were would the best place be to put the seams since it is bigger than the factory sheets? Once you have it formed and the grooves filled are you putting about a 4'' seam plate? Once you have your pan all built what did you use to fill your void under the pan, I was going to use foam, will that work? Thanks for all info that you can provide. Wade

politefab

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08 Oct 2008 07:26 PM
i cut the drain hole firs and slowly bend it for a slight bend i just slowly go around and tighten the claps. how much of a bend are you doing? if you want a bigger slope you may want to tighten it and wait a day or use a heat gun to soften it up as you bend it (i have done that as well). if you are going for a larger slope you may want to cut your groove slightly deeper when i use this method im usually not doing more than a 1/4" slope. if you just go at it and tighten your clams im sure it will break. there are several people out there using this method to bend engineered stone so they have all in one piec shower pans the method came from doing it with solid surface. i started doing it after i saw some one do it. i have always had better luck heating the material up with a heat gun

Johnny C

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08 Oct 2008 09:25 PM
Posted By politefab on 10/08/2008 7:26 PM if you are going for a larger slope you may want to cut your groove slightly deeper when i use this method im usually not doing more than a 1/4" slope. i have always had better luck heating the material up with a heat gun Eli: Are you talking about 1/4" slope total from the edge of the pan to the drain, or 1/4" per foot. I always build the pan to 1/4" per ft. Wade, if I were going to try this method, and Eli correct me if I am wrong. I would use a 1/2" router bit. this would seem to allow more flexibility from the material. It might also help to knock the very corners off of the bit on a grinder, just so that they are not perfectly square. Johnny C

politefab

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09 Oct 2008 04:01 PM
from the edge to the center and yes the wider the grove the better i have one it with a single saw cut but. the wider cut will allow you moor flexibility. in most cases when i am doing a rabbit in solid surface i use bits that i have had the sharpening guy put an 1/8" radius on the corners. the piece i am gluing in the rabbit just needs the edge knocked off with an 1/8" round-over and you get a perfect fit

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