How-To: Rabbeting Solid Surface Edge > The Fabricator Network

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Saturday, September 13, 2008

How-To: Rabbeting Solid Surface Edge
By Andy @ 7:56 PM :: 618 Views :: 2 Comments ::

Solid surface edges are typically double stacked face to back to create the 1 1/2" edge height. There are also applications when rabbeting the bottom of the material makes applying the edge much more accurate. These are some ideas for the rabbet.

Eliminate a particulate line
Tall Aprons
Curved vertical edges

This How-To will focus on using the rabbet technique to apply tall, vertical, curved aprons.

Step 1. There are different types of rabbeting router bits available. In this case we are using a bit that will cut into the material 1/2". That is all I need for the first piece of apron.

Step 2. Cut an 1/8" deep rabbet along the entire length of all edges where you need an apron. Route slowly. This should eliminate any chipping along the leading edge.

This will leave a nice clean 1/2" wide x 1/8" deep rabbet. Check the rabbet and make sure it is clean and free from any leftover chips.

Step 4. Hot glue angle blocks to keep the. Line the blocks with the back edge of the rabbet.

Step 5. Heat the edge.

Step 6. Set edge into rabbet and clamp tight. Let cool completely.

Step 7. Unclamp and clean thouroughly.

Step 8. Apply plenty of glue in the rabbet. Make sure the glue squezzes out the front and back.

Step 9. Remove the clamps and block. Finish with your normal fabrication techniques.

This rabbet technique is not required in most cases, but can be extremely useful. It is also a very inexpensive.

Hope this helps and good luck.

About the Author: Andy Graves is the owner and operator of Olive Mill Manufacturing Inc. in Anaheim California. Olive Mill specialized in residential and commercial countertop fabrication/installation. Graves can be reached at olivemill@hotmail.com Visit his website: www.olivemill.com

Comments

By Kowboy @ Sunday, September 14, 2008 11:45 AM

Andy:
I wouldn't risk any color change by heating the piece to be bent. On a radius that large, solid surface will bend without a problem. If you do heat, you have to clamp to shape and cool before gluing, a waste of time in this case.

After cleaning the rabbet and piece, I would Dani-clamp the piece in place with a 1/8" gap at the rabbet. Squirt glue into the space and lower the piece into the glue. This eliminates adhesive air time and lowers contamination chances.

Joe

By gowren @ Monday, September 15, 2008 10:23 AM

We have always done a stand up edge. The edge on our first price level is a 5/16 radius. we rabbet .3 deep. this lets the bearing of the round over bit ride on a clean edge and puts the seam at the point where the round over starts. this does two things. if there are any issues with the seam it is much less noticeable and if there are issues with particulate distribution from the face to the back side of the sheet it is usually on the bottom of the sheet and this eliminates problems with appearance between the face of the edge and the edge of the sheet. We also beieve we get a stronger edge because the adhesive line is over 3/4in. We also control the thickness of the front edge at a full 1.5in which makes the furring easy with either 3/4 ply or 1in MDF. We also get a 25 1/4in deck, an 1 1/2 in edge and a 3 in backsplash from a 30in sheet.

I know some of you purists will object to a 3 in backsplash but a post form top in our area only has a 3 1/2 in backsplash.

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